After a few more days in Iceland we finally met some actual Icelanders. This was not as easy as you might think as there are only about 300,000 inhabitants on the whole island (and seemingly as many tourists). So it took getting lost on a series of gravel roads before stumbling upon Skemman Kaffihús in Hvanneyri. Hvanneyri is the sleepiest college town we have ever seen. A few dorms, fewer people, a restored barn selling wool products and the cutest most intimate coffee shop ever. The owner and her teenage helper answered every question we  

 could think of concerning their native land. Coffee lasted close to an hour and when it was done every wrong turn and misdirection was forgiven. Much later, like 2 AM, I was wide awake in my tent while kids played loudly outside and parents drank a few feet away. Corey and Henna where sound asleep and I waited patiently for the natives to say good night.

So far one of the things we love most about Iceland are all the contradictions and little quirks. For example:

Almost all the national sights are free but it sometimes cost a couple hundred krónur to go to the bathroom.

Hamburgers are eaten with a fork and knife. 

English is the default language and many advertisements are only in English. The official literacy rate for Iceland is 100% and we guess 99% also speak English.

In midsummer there is not only no dark there isn’t even dusk. Just bright unyielding light. It is cold though and even colder after sunset (no sun but still 100% light). There are no campfires either so we hang out a lot in our car reading and playing games before going to bed.

The grass is quite lovely and speckled with tundra and wild flowers. No ticks and few bugs. Perfect for sheep and campsites. 

The hiking and scenery is simply amazing. Every drive involves a lot of adjectives and some planning for our next trip here.

We have been lucky to have so much sunshine as we have.      

There has been this nagging doubt in my head about all the gear we lugged over. It is not so much fun bringing it from point to point. But over the last 24 hours it has all been put to good use (and guess what, they have precooked meats here too). And after our first night camping we feel at home.  Or as home as we possibly can in the land of no dark.

At midnight the sky just kind of sat on sunset, making the clouds purple for hours. So we got off the plain feeling early evening in the middle of the night and tasked with getting our car then driving the thirty or so minutes to the hostel. We did this but only after an extended mishap with the car rental which resulted in an upgrade to a decade or so old Rav4. It was about 2 AM when we reached the hostel and discovered our private room was less private than it should be. She (a young, probably American tourist) was suppose to but did not switch rooms before our arrival. My snoring probably made her wish she had. Due to this mistake we scored free blankets (yes, they charge for that) to go with free towels (that too) and a late check out time of 11 to go along with our already free room.

And I got to say we like this clean place that is crawling with tourists of every age and from every part of the world (although no children except Henna). It has good vibes, even better coffee, and the beds were comfortable. Think we are going to like Iceland.

So much of our trip so far has been about trains, either trains that still run or places where trains used to be like the High Line Park in New York City. 

We did TONS of walking today, spanning from the 911 memorial, to Central Park.  From the people, the food, the entertainment in the park we couldn’t get enough of it.  After about 12 hours of taking it all in, we crashed in Bryant park while enjoying some yummy food. The park was alive with folks just hanging around talking and it felt awesome just sitting amid the organized chaos.  

First rule with Amtrak has to be to lower your expectations. Case in point; after 15 or so hours there were several serviceable bathrooms and several with toilet paper but precious few with both. But there were some highlights mostly found in the company we kept. Like playing poker with a trio of step cousins from the great northwest (we pretended wads of napkins were money and Henna more than held her own). We also swapped jokes with Grayson (a carpenter with a poet’s eye) and took note of the absurd like the Amish teenagers who snuck away from their families to surf the net a bit with a borrowed smart phone.  We even were able to sleep a bit.  All of this kind of made up for the hour and a half we were stuck in the middle of nowhere wondering if the engineer would ever get us going again. He did and we ended our day in Times Square happy to be on the road once more.