We spent two beautiful nights camping at the Covert/South Haven KOA.  It had been a while since our last visit.  Where there were once secluded rustic sites behind a small fishing pond there are now fancy shmancy cabins with bathrooms, AC, gas grills, and decks.  The horror!  Actually they seem kind of nice.  A bit pricey (about $130/night in high season; closer to $70 other times) but probably much cheaper than other South Haven options and a whole lot more fun than a hotel room.  But we chose, for the 32^nd and 33^rd time this year, to sleep in our tent.  You might be asking yourself why?  Well, besides saving money we were really looking forward to kicking back by a fire (a big no-no at any Holiday Inn).

So we spent the money we saved by camping on apples and used books.  For the former we ventured a bit south to the Tree-Mendus Fruit orchard which grows an outstanding 200+ variety of apples (as well as peaches, blackberries, and other fruits).  Many of the apples offered were either heritage or hybrid fruits.  Taking a cue from the surrounding vineyards, they provide apple tastings which are guided by a kind of fruit sommelier.  We fell in love with the Hawaii apple which is a cross between a Gravenstein and Golden Delicious.  Corey and I also were impressed by the Northern Spy but Henna less so (supposedly they make an excellent pie).  The Empire (a heritage apple) was also quite tasty.  After we made a mental note of what we wished to pick we caught a hay ride into the apple orchard for some serious picking along with a little fall leaf peeping.

The next day we visited South Haven before driving the three hours home.  South Haven is as cute as a place can be without being sickening sweet.  On Columbus Day 2015 it had a sleepy kind of feel that is probably never present in the summer.  Just before venturing deep into the lake via the pier (with waves lapping over our feet the whole way west), we stumbled upon Black River Books.

This is our checklist for a used book store.

A huge selection of used books as well as new books penned by area authors?  Check.

One big friendly dog?  Actually two labradoodles that like to be pet.

Coffee?  Yes and also homemade cardamom toast both of which were served on the honor system and next to comfy couches.

Interesting and likeable proprietors?  The husband and wife were as knowledgeable about books as they were nice.  And they gave us the recipe for their homemade cardamom toast.  What’s not to like?

Link to Tree-Mendus Fruit

Link to Black River Books

  
It seems like for every paved mile in Wyoming there are at least another ten that are gravel.  And some of the coolest (or in this case warmest) things involve kicking up a little dust.  So a few miles south of Hoback Junction on the way to Pinedale is a ten mile turn off to Granite Creek.  Take that turn.  Then drive, slowly, to the Granite Creek Waterfall (about nine miles).  Walk down to the creek (which is more like a river) and gauge whether you are fit enough to cross the moderately flowing water in order to reach the other side.  Henna and Corey had no difficulty doing so.  I was able to cross but only by using my hands and moving very, very carefully and looking a lot like I was playing Twister.  This crossing is not for everyone and we did see two ladies and a man slip several times on the rocks before giving up.  

What exactly lies on the other side of this creek/river?  A makeshift hot tub out of carefully placed rocks that is filled by the cool Granite Creek and near boiling hot sulfur smelling water cascading down from the cliff walls.  There is really nothing comparable to plopping your but in a natural hot tub while staring at a waterfall set in the Wyoming semi-wilderness.  A mile down the road is another hot spring that you pay to enter but we saw no reason to check it out.  Heaven was right there lapping at our feet.

  

Last night in Sidney, NE we stopped to look at a hotel. It was The Dude from the Big Lebowski working the front desk. He liked my shirt and when I told him I got it in Stockholm he said, “Nice, I always wanted to go to the Netherlands.”

At dinner, a chain restaurant because in Sidney, Nebraska there is not one other dinner option, we heard the kitchen tell our young waitress that they had no more soup. Corey and Henna were waiting on that soup (which was most of their dinner). Ten minutes passed and my dinner was ready before the waitress told us they had no soup. Meanwhile her boyfriend came by with their baby. The two sat next to our booth with dad ignoring baby who began to cry louder and louder as we waited for our new dinner. Waitress then worked the room while at the same time trying to soothe the baby which caused baby to cry louder. And it felt good heading home.

In Paris we had a waiter patiently review our order before making suggestions that greatly enhanced our dining experience. We tipped 10% and he reacted as if we had tipped a whole lot more. Here in the heartland we tipped 20% for inept service and a good story.

Across the street from the iconic Wrangler store is a locally owned coffee shop housed in a former movie theater. It is a giant step up from our usual interstate coffee choice (gas stations). Cheyenne itself is an almost cute rough and tumble kind of a place where you can wear a cowboy hat no problem. And they also serve bubble tea. 

   

Two park rangers drove a team of mules down the trail which pushed a mama bear and her two cubs down the same trail. This in turn caused several hikers to backtrack to a little pull out we had just reached. Courage though ran uphill with David and Mariah’s enthusiasm making the three of us more confident which in turn calmed a very nervous family standing next to us. The bears passed by less than ten yards from us and it was awesome.

The two nights we spent up in the north fork of Cascade Canyon where simply amazing. The weather was good, company great, and the views stupendous.  Besides the bears, we also spied moose, mule deer, marmot, pika and one, maybe two, silver fox. We hung out at Lake Solitude and when the day hikers left we stayed. It was also cool hangung out with our west coast family (and playing cards by flashlight in our little tent almost 10,000 feet high was something we will not soon forget). The discomforts, like having to bury our poop, eating mostly dehydrated foods and, worst of all, instant coffee were a small price for having a piece of wilderness all to ourselves. We can’t wait to camp with David and Mariah again.

We are on a bit of a vacation hanging out with David and Mariah in the Tetons. A short walk from us is the Signal Mountain Lodge which makes for a handy refuge from serious thunder storms which we had to make use of a few days back. Forecast for next five days alternates clouds and sun with no rain in the picture. Meteorology here though is pretty suspect.

A few days ago my wallet dropped out of my shorts in the parking lot near the lodge. I did not know it was missing until hours has past. It was waiting for me at the gift shop. Yesterday I lent twenty bucks to a stranger after realizing she had locked her key in the car. I borrow sugar from a man and then later Corey lends soap to his wife. People keep borrowing Dave’s hatchet and yesterday they returned it with a Korean cinnamon punch drink and a margarita in the can. And so on and so on. This good will is by no means a safeguard from all the world’s misfortune. But it sure makes life more fun.

 We met David’s mom in her home town of Lady Smith then David and Mariah a few years later. Two years ago we camped together in Washington State and now we are together in Wyoming. Another circle complete.   

 

Two hundred plus miles into Nebraska off Interstate 80 in Kearny, Nebraska is a road side attraction like no other. For starters, instead of being at the side of the road it actually hovers above the highway. Which is fitting since the focus here is on travel from the Gold Rush days right up to the present interstate. This travel focused story is told mostly through headphones and incorporates everything from drive in movie theaters to convincing campgrounds. The few windows looking out to the highway reinforce what a cool thing it really is to be able to drive oneself across this country. It is something every one should do at least once.

A short walk from the parking lot is a bridge leading to an impressive bike trail as well as a recreated earth lodge. Pretty cool and also free. Tickets to the museum are $12 for adults and less for kids.

We came home and before we could shake off all the jet lag we enjoyed one amazing, absolutely perfect wedding between two former house sitters. Michelle and Jerry were a thing before they agreed to help us out, but we like to think that Chateau Hennacornoeliday maybe nudged them closer together. Besides the wedding we also hung out with friends, celebrated a nephew/cousin graduating high school, and had tea with an adorable two year old for her birthday. It was a good week.

We also repacked. Europe was grand but sometimes we were a bit homesick. Not just for friends and family, but also for campfires, picnic tables, free bathrooms, and a little bit of space. We craved smores, stars, and our camping chairs. Add three neighbors and two cousins heading to one of our favorite spots in the world (Grand Tetons National Park) and you can see why we sit now in Iowa City ready to head further west tomorrow.