The Memphis Blues

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We saw quite a lot of Memphis in just a little bit of time. Barbque? Check (and in case you are wondering, Corey had a grill portabella sandwich smothered in sauce). Graceland? Sun Studio? Two more checks. We also saw a few ducks hanging out in a hotel lobby, strolled down Beale Street (refreshingly not family friendly, but we are a family so it was a short time for us there), and took the monorail over the Mississippi to Mud Island. If Mud Island sounds terrifying, like the last place on earth where dinosaurs still roam, it is not. It is actually a cool blend of museum and interactive outdoor sculpture i.e. a miniaturized Mississippi that you can walk from Cairo, Il to New Orleans. Even in miniature form it takes about fifteen minutes to do.

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Graceland's finished basement

But Graceland is what most people think of when they think of Memphis and it is Graceland we went to first. We honestly had no idea what to expect. Two big surprises for me. 1) The house actually felt pretty normal. Not even that big. It is like 13,000 square feet and has over 20 rooms, but inside it felt more Brady Bunch than Rock and Roll diva. 2) I really liked Graceland. Actually wish we spent more time there. Yes, it is an extremely sanitized look at the King of Rock. But man, when is the last time you walked through a hall of hundreds of mounted gold and platinum records. And the jumpsuits! Man, Elvis had style.

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Courtesy of Elvis Presley’s Graceland

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As cool as Graceland is (and it is pretty cool), Sun Studio is even cooler. This is where Elvis first recorded. It is also the studio that first signed Johnny Cash, Howling Wolf, B.B. King, Roy Orbison, Carl Perkins, and Jerry Lee Lewis. U2 also recorded some of Rattle and Hum. A small, homey place, you get to do things like hold the microphone that Elvis and others used to change America and the world forever. Tickets are only $12 an adult and children under 12 are free. Very Hennacornoelidays recommended.

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I also wrote up a few articles for Splash. If you are interest in reading them, here is the Graceland article (with a few more cool photos) as well as an article about Sun Studio. We also recommend staying at this Airbnb located in the hip Cooper-Young neighborhood which is, by the way, what Brooklyn would look like if it relocated to Memphis.

Where We Circle Southern Illinois Like a Turkey Vulture

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There are few places less uncovered by Hennacornoelidays than Southern Illinois. The actual boundaries of Little Egypt (as this area is sometimes known) are a little vague. Generally speaking though, it is defined by the Mississippi and Ohio which come together at Cairo to form Illinois’ most southern point. The top lid is less clear but probably lies no further north than Effingham (a good four hours south of Chicago). You may still be in Illinois, but just try to get a Chicago newspaper or find a Cubs fan. Both are near impossible to do and any conversation reinforces the fact that most of this area rests further south than Richmond, Virginia.

So why do we keep coming back? It is part nostalgia. Corey and I honeymooned here almost fourteen years ago in the same cabin where I typed up these thoughts. Henna sat up for the first time here and in this cabin we have also searched for Easter eggs, listened to owls hoot at night, cowered by a television to track powerful storms headed our way, and walked the trail immediately outside a little bit further into the woods each visit.

But the area has a strong pull on us as well with each visit a mix of the old and the new. Very few things here are carefully marked and most visits involve a lot of time spent looking at a map. We are also happy to say that even GPS finds the area a bit dense and listening to it might cause the traveler to wander in circles. Return enough times and one begins to see each visit exists in fact as a circle with each trip overlapping the last.  For this adventure we circled the familiar while stopping at the new.

Pamona Winery

Those wine varietals you are accustomed to drink do not fare well in the Midwest. For that reason many of the Southern Illinois vineyards use hybrids resulting in wine that sort of resembles what you can buy a lot cheaper at your local grocery store. A few of the special vineyards, however, focus more on grapes that actually thrive in the thin southern soil. Pamona does it one step better by offering up a variety of apple wines. They are delicious with their Jonathon surprisingly tart and dry. Pamona also ages one in oak with the flavors reminding us a lot of Sake. The winery excels also in conversation and most visits include one with the owner, Jefferson Park native and self-described hippie George Majak who moved to the area in the late 1970s and had to initially learn to do without electricity. Things are more developed now, but the essential character of his place is a rugged retreat perfect for a picnic lunch or glass of Southern’s finest.

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George Majak showing off one of his many awards

 

Little Grand Canyon

This was not the first time we hiked into the canyon, but it was the first time we successfully navigated the entire three mile trail. It involved a lot of wet rock scrambles with the trail often resembling a slowly moving waterfall. We also were fortunate to encounter a few hikers along the way many of whom had gotten lost somewhere along the trail. We heeded their advice and for that reason spent more time admiring the pock marked canyon walls and less time arguing over which way to go.

If you attempt this trail search out the terrain for white diamonds marking the trail and know that a few key junctions do not have said diamonds to guide you in the right direction. Also bring water and maybe hike your socks high and/or wear pants to help defend against the bugs.

henna at the lgc              waterfall

 

Longbranch Café & Bakery
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We cannot believe it has taken us almost fifteen years to discover this vegetarian diner that is located in Carbondale across the street from the train station. The only thing better than the friendly people working there is the yummy food they serve. Henna recommends the Puerto Rican Black Beans and Rice. Corey and I both loved their home made hummus, delicious grilled cheese sandwich, and their made from scratch tomato basil soup. If you do not have time for lunch, grab something to go at their bakery.

Plaza Records
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Our 3 new favorite words are “dollar record bin.” There were so many quality records to choose from I had to talk Corey out of renting a U-Haul trailer. The store also promotes local talent, has a small listening station, and can be found in Carbondale.

Our Day of Action (April 1, 2016)

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Henna and I watched as the president of the American Federation of Teachers, Randi Weingarten, jumped up and down while defending public education. The thousand plus crowd, a mix of college student, CPS educators, and service union members, cheered her every word and it felt good to be a part of something bigger than us. Earlier Henna and I had mingled with my friends outside the school that on most Fridays I would have been inside. That also felt good as well as the cars honking in support of our Day of Action.

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One of the good guys in the fight for public education, State Rep Rob Martwick

Later Corey joined us (she was protesting outside of Henna’s school) and the three of us hopped a train to join a larger rally downtown. Along the way more red shirts joined us and by the time we reached our station it felt like the CTU Express. Among the people we met were a couple of CPS high school sweethearts who now teach together at a different CPS high school. He showed off his marching drum while she explained how a teacher at Schurz inspired her to become a teacher herself. She later got teary eyed when talking about how classroom cuts have hurt her students. Downtown it was a mass of teachers, parents, children, and protestors from every walk of life. The rain was intermittent but the crowd kept expanding until finally we marched with umbrellas and posters held over our head to keep us dry. Eventually the three of us made it home cold, wet, and exhausted.

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All aboard the CTU Express

Governor Rauner called the one day strike the “height of arrogance.” The Mayor, who cancelled school the previous Friday, also expressed his disappointment. What they fail to understand is that we do not work for them but for the families devastated by their ill-conceived educational policies. While Bruce insists that unions practically disband before raising the state income tax back to what it was under his predecessor (a rate that would keep Illinois paying one of the lowest income taxes in the country), our safety net is being disassembled. Shelters are being closed by the dozen and many families have no idea where their next meal will come from. Meanwhile Rahm sits on hundreds of millions of TIF Surplus funds while Henna sits in a classroom with thirty students. Arrogance is too nice a word to describe those jokers.

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A few of the amazing teachers that I am lucky to work with

For us, along with the thousands of like minded people who converged downtown, yesterday was far from a day off from work. After yesterday I believe more than ever that real change, the type that scares the establishment, is possible. But it might take a few more calls to action to make that happen.

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Like all Newfies he supports teachers

 

 

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It will take more than rain to stop the fight for public education

 

 

Great Travel Books: Orange Is The New Black by Piper Kerman

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It might seem odd to include a book about prison in my Great Travel Book Round Up, but when you come right down to it, Orange Is The New Black is actually quite similar to Cheryl Stray’s Wild. Both memoirs involve bad choices,  drugs, self-growth in response to adversity, and care packages that help our hero cope with the elements (books and boots respectively). Yes, Piper did not have much choice in her spiritual journey, but I think it is clear that Cheryl also felt that she had little choice in leaving her routine for the unfamiliar. And in the end both women appear better for their ordeal.

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Special note: One way that the books differ is in their treatment by the big/little screen. The movie Wild keeps true to the text and is as inspirational as the book. Not so true for the television version of Orange which trades Piper’s uplifting vision of women banding together against the dehumanizing forces of incarceration for an entirely fictional and over hyped world of sex, violence, and more sex. Not going to judge you if your into that kind of thing (I, um, had to watch several episodes before I decided it was not for me and then watched a few more just to make sure). But you really need to check out the book.

Date Night: Rent at Theo Ubique Cabaret Theatre

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Know it has been a while since we shared a date night pick, but this one is worth the wait. Staged in a Rogers Park dive bar (where the actors serve food and drinks at intermission), this production likely resembles Rent when it was first performed Off Broadway. The talent level is high, the prices are relatively low, and the songs are sung exceedingly well. All this makes for a Hennacornoelidays Recommendation.

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Savannah Quinn Hoover/Photo: Adam Veness

Theo Ubique Cabaret Theater, 6970 North Glenwood, (800) 595-4849, theo-u.com, $39-$44. Through May 1. Dinner requires pre-ordering. My full review for Newcity.

My New Years Resolution

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So I finally got around to writing a travel book. It started with me helping a friend plan out her next summer’s road trip and ended with a short book describing one of our all time favorite adventures. Take a bit of Route 20, add a dash of Colorado, then stir with the North Rim and… boom, you got yourself a Handy Dandy Guide to the Best Road Trip You Never Heard Of. I of course need to thank the fine folks at Hennarcornoelidays Press whose encouragement was vital. Corey, Henna, without you there would be no point in even leaving the house. If anyone wishes to check out the book (and it is free for some Amazon customers) follow the link below. Let me know what you think and if you like it share it with a friend! Happy New Year!

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To buy a copy, click here!

 

Dreaming Of A WIP Christmas/ WIP Theater

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A few nights ago the three of us along with a few of our good friends took a stroll to the WIP Theater.  A work in progress is what WIP stands for but their family oriented late night Christmas BYOB sketch comedy revue looks pretty darn complete to us.  It is also hilarious and we laughed as hard as our kids.  Sure the Old Styles/vodka cocktails/Miller Lights may have played a small contributing factor to our enjoyment (“BYOB family theater,” by the way, pretty much sums up Edison Park), but Dreaming Of A WIP Christmas offers up some serious high end witty talent that would not look out of place at Second City.

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Leading the antics is the hysterically over reacting Mike Capra who works wonderfully against the more straight laced Ian Hamilton.  Natalie O’Sullivan, who claims she is only doing the gig for charity (with the men the charity case) is as engaging as she is funny.  Together the trio imagine familiar holiday topics (like Scrooge) in unfamiliar ways (what exactly does he say to the stockholders after he starts giving away the company’s fortune?).  And the bit about Santa going through the drive through is pure comedic gold.  There is also some singing and although I wish they dumped the canned music it was, and, well maybe this is the drinks talking, kind of sentimental.  But it is the jokes that will cause tears to stream down your face.

We have been to the WIP a few times now and each time we vow to come back soon because supporting local theater + comedy + BYOB = a whole lot of fun.

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Dreaming Of A WIP Christmas is playing on December 18 and 19 at the WIP Theater (6670 North Northwest Highway).  Tickets are $15 for adults, $10 for children and can be purchased here or by calling (312) 692-9327.

Photos by:  Justin Lynk

 

 

 

 

 

Bronzeville, Chicago

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We took advantage of Open House Chicago by doing a quick exploration of Bronzeville.  Bronzeville spills east and west of Martin Luther King Drive from approximately 47th to 20th Street.

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In the early 20th century Chicago was even more segregated than it is today (and that is truly saying something).  For thousands of African Americans journeying north for a better life, Bronzeville was one of the few welcoming places in Chicago.  And Chicago is a heck of lot better for their very impressive contributions such as gospel, jazz, and open heart surgery (by an African American cardiologist named Daniel Hale Williams in 1893).

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Our all too brief tour of Bronzeville began at the Myers Ace Hardware (315 E. 35th Street).  From mechanic shop to swank night club (The Sunset Café) to an even swankier night club (The Golden Terrace) to an Ace Hardware store, this space has seen a lot.  And kind of like when we redid the basement in our 1920s house, a little peeling back reveals quite a lot of history.  In the case here it is a 1920s era mural that once decorated an incredibly small stage that featured musicians like Benny Goodman and Louis Armstrong (with our house it was mostly water stains and a few match books).

exterior shot of the forum

Next up was the elegantly decayed/hopefully someday restored Forum (328 E. 43rd Street) which at 115+ years old is likely the oldest surviving hardwood ball room in Chicago.  Outside the forum we met a woman whose former high school music teacher was featured on one of the large panels that gave a chronology of the music hall.  Inside the unheated place oozes the ghosts of debutantes, musicians, members of the Black Elks, and high school graduations.  Man it would be awesome to come back someday to see this place fully alive once more.

inside the forum

Our final stop was the Ebenezer Baptist Church (4501 S. Vincennes).  Built in 1899 as a Synagogue it was designed by Dankmar Adler to hold a glorious tune.  In 1921 the temple converted to its present church and a short while later it helped birth gospel music.   Smaller inside than the outside would suggest, this church practically glows with positive energy.  Maybe it was the Stars of David on the original stained glass windows, but I could not help but see this as a perfect blend of two beautiful cultures.  We left wishing to come back some day for the Sunday service.

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stained glass windows

And then we were gone, headed further south for Mor Mor’s potato sausage and another Bears loss.  We enjoyed one of the two.

Tree-Mendus Apples and Black River Book Store: South Haven, MI

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We stopped at Indiana's Dune State Park on the way to South Haven

A quick detour to Indiana’s Dune State Park on the way to South Haven

We spent two beautiful nights camping at the Covert/South Haven KOA.  It had been a while since our last visit.  Where there were once secluded rustic sites behind a small fishing pond there are now fancy shmancy cabins with bathrooms, AC, gas grills, and decks.  The horror!  Actually they seem kind of nice.  A bit pricey (about $130/night in high season; closer to $70 other times) but probably much cheaper than other South Haven options and a whole lot more fun than a hotel room.  But we chose, for the 32nd and 33rd time this year, to sleep in our tent.  You might be asking yourself why?  Well, besides saving money we were really looking forward to kicking back by a fire (a big no-no at any Holiday Inn).

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So we spent the money we saved by camping on apples and used books.  For the former we ventured a bit south to the Tree-Mendus Fruit orchard which grows an outstanding 200+ variety of apples (as well as peaches, blackberries, and other fruits).  Many of the apples offered were either heritage or hybrid fruits.  Taking a cue from the surrounding vineyards, they provide apple tastings which are guided by a kind of fruit sommelier.  We fell in love with the Hawaii apple which is a cross between a Gravenstein and Golden Delicious.  Corey and I also were impressed by the Northern Spy but Henna less so (supposedly they make an excellent pie).  The Empire (a heritage apple) was also quite tasty.  After we made a mental note of what we wished to pick we caught a hay ride into the apple orchard for some serious picking along with a little fall leaf peeping.

Henna picking an apple

The next day we visited South Haven before driving the three hours home.  South Haven is as cute as a place can be without being sickening sweet.  On Columbus Day 2015 it had a sleepy kind of feel that is probably never present in the summer.  Just before venturing deep into the lake via the pier (with waves lapping over our feet the whole way west), we stumbled upon Black River Books.

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This is our checklist for a used book store.

A huge selection of used books as well as new books penned by area authors?  Check.

One big friendly dog?  Actually two labradoodles that like to be pet.

Coffee?  Yes and also homemade cardamom toast both of which were served on the honor system and next to comfy couches.

Interesting and likeable proprietors?  The husband and wife were as knowledgeable about books as they were nice.  And they gave us the recipe for their homemade cardamom toast.  What’s not to like?

Link to Tree-Mendus Fruit

Link to Black River Books

Granite Creek Waterfall, Wyoming 

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It seems like for every paved mile in Wyoming there are at least another ten that are gravel.  And some of the coolest (or in this case warmest) things involve kicking up a little dust.  So a few miles south of Hoback Junction on the way to Pinedale is a ten mile turn off to Granite Creek.  Take that turn.  Then drive, slowly, to the Granite Creek Waterfall (about nine miles).  Walk down to the creek (which is more like a river) and gauge whether you are fit enough to cross the moderately flowing water in order to reach the other side.  Henna and Corey had no difficulty doing so.  I was able to cross but only by using my hands and moving very, very carefully and looking a lot like I was playing Twister.  This crossing is not for everyone and we did see two ladies and a man slip several times on the rocks before giving up.  

What exactly lies on the other side of this creek/river?  A makeshift hot tub out of carefully placed rocks that is filled by the cool Granite Creek and near boiling hot sulfur smelling water cascading down from the cliff walls.  There is really nothing comparable to plopping your but in a natural hot tub while staring at a waterfall set in the Wyoming semi-wilderness.  A mile down the road is another hot spring that you pay to enter but we saw no reason to check it out.  Heaven was right there lapping at our feet.