Along the Mississippi: Perot State Park, WI

I have to thank my friend Louie for this one.  We were looking for a place to peep fall leaves and he suggested this State Park.  Does not matter the state, the Mississippi river side is almost always one of bluffs, hills, and tall vantage points.  In the Midwest this brings welcome change from the flat countryside although the un-glaciated or “driftless” regions of Wisconsin also have elevation respite (the glaciers moved laterally through much of the Midwest and flattened the landscape my beloved Southern Illinois and large swaths of Wisconsin escaped this treatment). 

Perot State Park is a little north of La Crosse near the town of Trempealeau.  We saw little of Trempealeau and were pretty disappointed with what we saw of La Crosse.  The Great River State Trail (an old train track converted to a bike trail) passes through this area and maybe some day we will get a chance to ride on it.  Louie said he liked it.  He also said he once saw a bear on a different bike trail an hour or two north of that one  (I’m assuming not on a bike).  Perot State Park has a great campground and many trails leading to views of the Mississippi and its valley.

We have seen much of the Mississippi, but in an altogether disjointed and segmented way (kind of like the movie Pulp Fiction).  I do not want to ruin the ending for anyone but (spoiler alert) its endpoint is New Orleans and Corey I saw it spill into the Gulf prior to getting married.  A few years later we were newlyweds and saw its beginning in Lake Bemidji.  We have also crossed it many times, usually by bridge but also by ferry both large and small (the small was a little barge that could not take more than two or three cars from St. Genevieve, MO to a corn field outside of Chester, IL.)  And it was just a couple of weeks ago we caught up with our old friend at is midway point in Cape Girardeau.  The old lady was looking good, her waves gently lapping onto the bank just east of the city sea wall.  There have been other meetings of course, some of them mentioned in earlier posts.  Don’t be too surprised if you hear us mention this friend again because each time we go over the mighty waterway we feel the pull of her power and a hint of her history.

Great Midwestern River Cities: Dubuque, Iowa

If this blog entry is ever adapted as a movie I see the town of Galena cast by somebody pretty and popular.  Maybe it would be Scarlett Johansson as the cheerleader and girlfriend to the star quarterback.  And Galena’s sister city, Dubuque, IA?  That role would have to go to the gritty and talented Lucinda Williams who would play the quarterback’s best friend with the secret crush.  The audience would cheer on Lucinda, but in real life (not reel life), the quarterback stays with the cheerleader. 

So it goes with Galena, a town of a few thousand resident and a few more thousand tourists.  And I can see why; 85% of the city is considered a National Historic Landmark.  It also was the former home of President Grant and at one time was a crucial stop on the Mississippi River between the two Midwestern saints (Louis and Paul). 

Dubuque has over 50,000 residents and a lot of seniors frequenting the casino.  They also have a world-class Mississippi River Museum that spans two buildings.  One building, our favorite, was low-key and showed off various fish and amphibians native to the river.  The other building felt a little ecologically preachy to be interesting (although for us it was preaching to the choir).  Dubuque does have National Historic Landmarks and accessible history, but unlike Galena you have to work a bit to get to it.  The downtown area was full of interesting sculptures, pristine, and completely devoid of people after 9. 

So, Spielberg, Tarantino, M Knight Shyamalan, what do you think? Give me a call and we can talk numbers.

Wishing we were back on Spring Break…

We are just about finished with our first week back from Spring Break and we are pooped.  At least I am, Henna and Corey have as much energy as ever before.  Anyways, we are beginning to seriously plan this summer’s trip.  And by planning I mean staring at a map.  When asked where we are going, I think Corey has the best answer, “west.”  If I were to add to that, I would mention that we are hoping to avoid the expressway as much as possible.  For starters, we are going to take route 20 west to maybe Casper, WY.  Then we hope to head south and revisit RMNP, see Mesa Verde (last time for me I was about 12), and the Grand Canyon.  But until then, here are some of our favorite photos from past Spring Breaks.  Man, Henna sure does look older now (but not Corey and I).

The pictures above are from Normal, IL., Branson, MO., Petite Jean State Park, AR., and Garden of The Gods State Park, IL.  which are all one to two days from our Chicago home.

Happy Easter and Passover to everybody!

Just wanted everyone to know about the prestigious award nominated to us here at Hennacornoelidays by our friends at http://thisamaceinglife.com/http://thisamaceinglife.com/ is a cool blog we follow that details life on the road for a young family who happen to be part of the Wicked  tour (right now they are in Portland, OR, tomorrow who knows).  The star of their traveling circus is Mace, an adorable child who’s not yet one.  The award given to us is the (drum roll please…..)

The Liebster Award is part trophy, part chain letter and is given to blogs with less than two hundred followers with the stipulation that they in turn list their five favorite blogs.  Liebster, by the way, is German for “dearest.”  After almost one full year of blogging, our efforts have finally paid off.  Thank you very much thisaMACEing life for your kind words.

Here are our nominees for the Liebster award:  

http://walkingpapers.wordpress.com/ I (Corey) am always SO excited when I see a new post from walking papers! This blog eloquently chronicles a family living in the L.A. area with stories that touch the heart and always make me feel something with each post. 

http://keitherphoto.wordpress.com/   Where’s Keith?  is a cool blog about Keith’s many interests including photography and rock and roll.  We love the photos and are interested in anyone living on our favorite island (Vancouver Island). 

http://www.munchinwithmunchkin.com/ This blog is both humorous and yummy.  Very doable recipes and photos to boot, make this blog a must follow. 

http://nicfreeman.com/  NicFreeman is whom we want to be; a freelance writer who  travels to exotic places, probably on someone elses dime.  She is also a great photographer and offers great insight into the places she visits.

I (Noel) also wanted to give a shout out to some of my favorite travel books/ writers.  They are: 

Blue Highways and River-Horse by William Least-Heat Moon.  PrairyErth is good, but a little dense for my tastes.  And while I think that Quoz is better than most travel books out there, it was Blue Highways and River-Horse that most inspire me.  For both books, Moon does an incredible job of matching landscape with people.  He also has an amazing ear and talent for bringing stories out of strangers.  Much of his writing is over the same terrain that we travel which makes it fun to compare notes.

The Great Railway Bazaar by Paul Theroux.  Really, I recommend any book or collection of essays written by Mr. Theroux.  Although at times he goes a little to heavy with the literary allusions, his frankness and willingness to travel to places others are not makes him the rock star of travel writing. 

Bill Bryson’s A Walk in the Woods.  This Bill, unlike William Least-Heat Moon, is a little hit and miss for me.  I find him to be sometimes too dismissive of regions based on one bad, limited experience (for example, he does not have kind words for Southern Illinois but I am not sure he ever even got out of the car).  But in A Walk in the Woods he is at his most funny, most charming, and most endearing self.  I also recommend his book about traveling around Australia.

River Towns of the Midwest: Cape Girardeau, MO

Crossing over the Mississippi into Cape Girardeau we smiled at the big sign greeting us; “Cape Girardeau, hometown of the big mouth idiot Rush Limbaugh.”  Actually I just made that up.  There was no sign that I could see, but the visitor’s guide did indicate that one could take a self-guided trip past the hospital he was born in as well as other markers to that dopey bigot.

For the same reason why I wanted to fall in love with Mark Twain’s hometown of Hannibal, MO, I wanted to find serious fault with Cape Girardeau.  Ironically, it was Hannibal that felt worn out and offered to us only the most narrow of glimpses into its past.  Cape Girardeau, in contrast, had a friendly and comfortable feel.  Like many river towns, it was built on steep bluffs and seemed to rise up over itself with an elevated courthouse standing guard over the city.  The historic waterfront possessed a good number of 19th century buildings and just enough bars to remind everyone that Cape Girardeau is the home of Southeastern Missouri State University.  And lest you forget that Cape Girardeau is a river town, the waterfront is protected by a sturdy floodwall that tells, through colorful murals, of the interplay between river and town over the last three hundred years.

 

Then and Now: Rustic Hideaway, Southern Illinois

We just completed maybe our 9th visit to the Southern Illinois area and we think 7 of those visits have been at the cabin Rustic Hideaway.  We at Hennacornoelidays travel often, but return seldom.  The places we do return to have special places in our hearts and serve as reference points along the way.  The Burnham Hotel in Chicago is our model of luxury.  Waterton Lake National Park is the standard to judge all National Parks and Rustic Hideaway is our relaxation point.  Below are some pictures taken there both yesterday and over the past week:

I also wrote a review of the cabin and the area for Splash Magazine.  http://www.lasplash.com/publish/Domestic_150/rustic-hideaway-review.php

 

Greetings from Union County

Greetings from Union County.  Where exactly is Union County?  If I told you it is south of most of Virgina and possessed several mighty good wineries, would you guess Illinois?  Probably not, but Union County is one of the southern Illinois counties in a region often referred to as Little Egypt.  Why the shout out to Egypt?  Maybe the early settlers thought the Mississippi resembled the Nile River which would explain a couple of town names (Thebes and Cairo).   Corey and I first discovered this special delta ten years ago when an internet search brought us to Rustic Hideaway for our honeymoon.  Two years later we brought baby Henna (she was about 7 months old) and it was as good a spot as we remembered.  The three of us have been back most Spring Breaks since then.

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Corey and I once camped at Giant City State Park (en route to New Orleans) and the three of us also once rented a house close to the same state park.  But our first choice is always Rustic Hideaway.  To Hennacornoelidays, Rustic Hideaway represents the type of travel we seek out.  Although more now than ever before, there are not too many restaurants nearby which encourages us to stay in and make use of the small electric stove and the propane gas grill (lucky for us the grill has been recently upgraded and I can now use it without the usual accompanying cusses used to get it started).  The cabins are private and off a gravel driveway which is itself off a small road that gets little traffic.  There are two cabins on what I am guessing is an acre of land.  Behind the cabins is National Forest and a trail leads up and then on seemingly to nowhere.  This time we took it further than ever before and came to a better maintained trail that we followed before getting tired and turning back.  Without a destination the hike is both maddening and liberating to us as we feel no pressure to go on and thus have never hiked more than a mile in.  At night we have easter egg hunts (something I never did as a child) and play lots of board games (something I gratefully did have  as a child).  We also take frequent dips in the hot tub and enjoy bird watching from the deck.  The small inconveniences of the cabin are hardly worth mentioning but I will mention them anyways: well water and not as comfortable of beds as one would hope.  The first is easily enough remedied and the beds are only slightly worse than what we have at home.  Everything else in the cabin is simple charm and useful extras like coffee filters and spices.

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This is going to be the first of a couple of blog entries about Union County and the surrounding area.  I am also going to write-up a review (my first ever travel review) of Rustic Hideaway for Splash and when I do will post the link here.  Right now the coffee is starting to wake me up a bit and I am going to warm up in the tub before the ladies wake up.

Some Great Playgrounds Out There

Sure, nature makes a great playground, but so does man (and woman).  Here are some of our favorite mechanical attractions.

The Missoula County Fair

Corey and I have been there twice, but only once with Henna (the first was as newlyweds on our return trip from Alaska).  In the ten or so years between visits we changed much, the fair not so much (although we did miss the horse racing present on our first trip).  That is a good thing.  Both times there we wandered through prize cows and llamas as well as other questionable western livestock and dined on funnel cakes and other tasty fried treats.  Corey does not like things that spin her, but Henna does and the two of us enjoyed watching rainbows from the Ferris wheel.

St. Jospeph, Michigan

Where there was once a religious retreat there is now an awesome beach, playground, and carousel.  All of it sits below the down town area where ornamental cannons stand guard.  Upstairs (at grade level) is an OK children’s museum as well as several ice cream shops.  Parking is cheap or free, no beach fees at all, and the carousel will not cost you more than a few dollars.  What is there not to like?

The Carousels of Oregon

Salem and Albany Oregon both have sister cities near the east coast and love things that go round and round.  In Albany volunteer workers have been spending the last several years carving and painting works to complement a restored 1909 Dentzel machine that will ultimately power their creation.  Donations and visitors are always welcomed and our short time there felt like being in a dream factory.

Salem residents and tourists have been enjoying their carousel for some time.  The carousel is housed in a small building within a larger green park a short distance (but a busy street crossing) from the downtown area.  Incidentally, the Salem visitor center is the only center I know that sells bottles of wine from a nearby winery. 

Millennium Park, Chicago

We have not made the final selections yet, but I think we are going to omit this park from our Great City Park list (the Lakefront though is still in the running).  As consolation prize, we will mention our hometown park on our great man made attraction list.  The reason for this lofty honor, the cool off factor.  Not much in Chicago is free, but standing under a giant waterfall and dodging underground sprinklers is.  And we love it.

Do you have a favorite playground?  Please, Hennacornoeli minds want to know.

Great City Park: Washington Park, Portland (OR)

Portland’s parks as a whole deserve an entry in our Hennacornoeli listing of the Great City Parks.  Like everything out west, Portland’s park system is larger than their eastern counterparts.  A real challenge to us then is picking which park to profile.  Forest Park, per Wikipedia, is the largest “wilderness” urban park, (it may be a little wild, but when I think wilderness I imagine a place miles from people and a road system), Mills Park is the smallest park in the U.S. (at 2 square feet it makes for lousy tag), and Mount Tabor with its very dramatic views would all be good picks.  We, however, chose Washington Park as being most worthy of the Hennacornoeli Great City Park award.  Maybe we will send the park a statue.

Things to do in Washington Park:  visit the Children’s Museum (a truly great playhouse for children of all ages to explore), go to the zoo (we did not but I am sure it is a fun time), smell the roses at the International Rose Test Garden, sit for a concert on the terraced steps immediately below the rose garden, contemplate the destructive nature of war at the Oregon Vietnam’s War Memorial (we found the layout, an extended and windy walking path leading past a time line of the war, powerful and engaging) or take in the trees at the Hoyt Arboretum.  Although the park itself is away from the urban center, there is great public transportation available to whisk you both to and away from the park.  The park even has a large and affordable parking lot making it a great base camp for further city explorations.  And like all great parks, the boundaries are a bit muddled and seem to spill into the bordering neighborhood. 

As for the city itself, many people think of Portland as a smaller San Francisco.  We see the city more like San Francisco’s somewhat scruffier but more endearing younger cousin.  Like San Francisco, Portland has a lot of rain, a green feel, and a sophisticated urban feel.  But both the wealth and poverty in Portland is less pervasive than in the bigger city.  Whereas eating out in San Francisco can be quite pricey, we ate well and relatively cheap at smaller sushi places, coffee shops, and one food truck that served up mighty tasty crepes.  The homeless in Portland also have a quaint, just doing this for a lark feel in contrast to the more professional San Francisco pan handlers.  Corey and I were amused by all the youths with smart phones, a hip dog (usually with a bandana), and an extended hand asking for money (probably to help pay for their data plan). 

Although we really loved being in Portland, I just felt that Portlanders did not always get me.  For example, while picking up a bottle of wine I said something like “Man, you guys have it good here.  I just miss pumping my own gas” which was met with a dirty look and a sarcastic “yeah, that must really suck.”  Other residents told deeply personal stories such as the young man on the MAX who told of his recent struggles with a heroine addiction.  He also told us about his plans to fight forest fires in Montana (good money) and how he dreaded the resulting separation from his young daughter.  Still other residents, with little encouragement needed, talked about the need to further legalize pot, how much they disliked Chicago, and the virtues of Portland.  Hopefully some time soon we will be able to get back to Portland.  I will refrain from talking about the joys of pumping your own gas and will be ready to counsel all who need counseling.

Renfro Valley, KY

I am taking a quick break from my Great City Parks series to talk about the Renfro Valley in Kentucky.  Why am I doing that?  Well, while taking Henna to school today a friend asked me for suggestions regarding their coming summer camping trip.  The poor guy had no idea what he was in for.  Anyways, I recommended the Cosby Campground of the Great Smokey National Park.  But it got me thinking about a place on the way to there…..

We do not know the Renfro Valley well, although we have driven through there many times.  Each time the Smokeys was the destination and each time I told Corey “some day we should just go here for a weekend.  I mean it is so much closer to Chicago.”  Well, a couple of summers ago while on a much larger trip we hung out with cousins at the Renfro Valley KOA in a Kamping Lodge.  What a deal:  $100 for four adults and a kid with a full kitchen, gas grill, and, given the near 100 degree heat this was a biggie, central AC and a swimming pool.  Nice.  This was our second time at this KOA (the other time was in a small Kabin also with AC) and I gotta say they have a nice place.

The next day we sought out the Cumberland Falls.  Cumberland Falls State Park is a “resort” state park meaning they do have a lodge, cabin, and a swimming pool.  It was a fun, country drive and a crowded state park.  Cumberland Falls is known for their moonbows which occur a few times each year (moonlight goes through the falls and creates a nocturnal rainbow).  There has to be a full moon, few clouds, and Kentucky has to be having a good basketball season.  I am just kidding about the full moon.

It was too hot and humid the day we were there to do any hiking.  But the falls are cool and we would like to come back in the fall. 

There is one more must see destination in that part of Kentucky; the KFC museum in Corbin which is a surprisingly interesting look into the Colonel’s efforts at bringing his secret recipe to you.  It also is attached to an actual KFC so you can sample his efforts afterwards.