Great Travel Books: The Old Patagonia Express by Paul Theroux

In my opinion there are two giants among the travel writing elite; Paul Theroux and William Least-Heat Moon.  To paraphrase Uma Thurman’s character in Pulp Fiction, there are usually only two types of people in this world; fans of Paul or fans of William. Few are fans of both for the reason that they have such different styles.  Paul it seems never stops writing and is currently credited with thirty-two works of fiction and seventeen travel themed books.  William Least-Heat Moon has written just four travel narratives.  Paul has traveled and written about most everywhere including Africa, the Mediterranean, South America, India, China, the British Isles, and the South Pacific.  William’s writings have touched Canada, but otherwise have never left the continental U.S.  Both writers talk and live books in their travels and meet a lot of interesting people along the way.  But Paul talks more books and William shares more tales.  There are some similarities between the two writers.  They both began writing up their travels in their mid to late 30s (just like me!) and they both are no longer married to their first wives (hopefully never like me).

The Old Patagnoia Express by Paul Theroux

It was hard for me to pick which one of Paul Theroux’s novels is most worthy of being featured by Hennacornoelidays.  By the way, there is no more coveted nod of approval in the publishing world than the one bestowed by us.  After moments of careful considerations, I decided to go with The Old Patagonian Express.  The idea here is simple enough; leave ones door in Boston, board a commuter train to another train headed south and repeat this until one reaches the very tip of South America.  Like most of Paul’s travels, there is no real degree of difficulty in this.  If you have time, patience, and a willingness to suffer some rough travel, you too can take the trains to the very end (in this case Tierra del Fuego).  Along the way, Theroux makes some rather odd acquaintances and even gets a chance to spend some time with famed Argentinian writer Jorge Borges just prior to his death. 

This book is really Theroux at his best.  Whereas later works by Theroux sometimes feel weighted down by his almost constant literary criticisms, this book focuses more on the landscape and the people who populate it.  He also lets the reader in a little more than he does with previous books.  In his first novel The Great Railway Bazaar, for example, Paul barely hints at why he is traveling by train through Asia and Europe.  And the reader has no clue as to the marital strife this journey caused.  The Old Patagonia Express is by no means a diary.  But he does offer more of an explanation as to what inspired him to take such an audacious journey.  In fact this idea of simply taking a road to a logical end point is what makes every map a glimpse into the possible.

Great Travel Books: Alaska Challenge by Bill and Ruth Albee

Alaska Challenge might be the oddest of all the books on my shelf.  Over seventy years old, it sits wedged in between more conventional books.  Its binding is coming apart a little, but other than that it is in pretty good shape.  It was written by Bill and Ruth Albee, copyrighted in 1940, and purchased by myself from a used book shop in Evanston in 2002.  Corey and Noel share a few similarities with Bill and Ruth Albee in that both couples have Illinois roots and traveled to Alaska shortly after getting hitched.  Bill and Ruth walked, Corey and I drove (Bill and Ruth were also cousins but Corey and I have no such blood link).  Like Corey and I, Bill and Ruth made a lot of fascinating friends and the journey definitely drew them closer together.

What I like best about the book:  It is through and through a truly awesome yarn.  Per Bill and Ruth, they poach moose to survive (and aggravate Canadian/ U.S. relations in doing so), get lost while following a bogus map sold to them by an old-timer, teach among First Nations people in the arctic, give birth, and witness the very end of the Hudson Bay Company’s trading post era.  Is it a completely factual book?  I doubt it; at the very least I am sure much of it is embellished.  The thing that truly captivates me is how little I know about Bill and Ruth Albee.  Believe me, I have tried and tried to get more information about them but the best I can come up with is that they toured some with the Chautauqua Circuit (a traveling tent show that featured an assortment of vaudeville and self-improvement/ religious type gurus).  I also found an article written by Bill that ran November, 1938 in Popular Mechanics magazine (http://blog.modernmechanix.com/dont-pity-the-poor-eskimo-part-i/).  That same article posting has several people commenting on how they found Alaska Challenge (almost always in a state of disrepair) and how they always wondered what became of Bill and Ruth Albee.  One person commenting on that article claims Bill as his great-uncle and stated that he passed away in 2010 at the age of 102.  I like to think that Ruth also lived to a grand old age and that the two of them and their children had lots and lots of adventures in all types of far away and exotic places.  Until told otherwise, that is the story I am going to stick with.

Great Travel Books: Travels with Samantha by Philip Greenspun

Next up on Noel’s recommended reading list is a little known gem called Travels with Samantha by Philip Greenspun.  Written in the mid-1990s, Philip traces his mostly solo journey over the western U.S., Canada, and Alaska.  It took me almost ten years to realize this, but the title is a rift on Steinbeck’s classic travel novel Travels with Charlie.  Charlie is a poodle, Samantha a Macintosh.  In Travels with Charlie, Steinbeck spends a lot of time describing the modern wonders of expressways and vending machines.  Philip spends a lot of time in his book explaining to people that newfangled internet thing.  A couple places of business even let him use their landline so that he can get on the information highway.

Travels with Samantha by Philip Greenspun

What I like best about Travels with Samantha:  The pictures are awesome.  Taken pre-digitally they tell the wonder of both the majestic and the familiar.  He also has some really funny stories.  My favorite involves him being woken from his tent by a big burly biker asking him if he was a Jew.  Philip nervously answered yes to which the biker replied “Great!  We need a tenth for a minyan.” 

Another thing working in Travels with Samantha’s favor is the story of how we came to know the book and its author.  Corey and I drove to Alaska after we got married.  While camped out near Kluane National Park, we met Philip and his friend while doing laundry.  Philip was flying a small plane to Alaska and his friend was driving an RV.  After a bit of good conversation, Philip invited Corey and I up in his plane.  I will never forget how from that height the Alcan was little more than a thin ribbon of concrete winding through an immense wilderness.  Late that night but under the high sun Philip handed us his book and we have not since met face to face (but we have traded emails).  The open road is a magical place indeed.

Great Travel Books: River Horse by William Least-Heat Moon

river horse picture

I cannot possibly write about William Least-Heat Moon’s River Horse without at least talking about his original masterpiece Blue HighwaysBlue Highways was born out of a serious disruption to William’s life.  With his marriage ending and an unexpected dismissal from a college teaching job, William took to the back roads in search of America.  Sounds hokey, but William demonstrates an unnerving ability to get people to talk about themselves and in doing so he collects more stories than a library.  What also makes Blue Highways special is the path of his journey which resembles more a circle than a line.  He is very much here a hobo in possession of a van.

In contrast, River Horse is about one clearly articulated direction; west.  William trades his vehicle for a boat and a small rotating crew of co-pilots in order to travel from New York City to Astoria.  In doing so, William and his crew battle flooded rivers, choppy seas, and the boat itself.  At times they bed down on their house boat, but they also sleep in bed and breakfasts, cheap motels, and one raucous river rat dwelling.  And through it all William tells of the people he meets and describes quite eloquently the challenges inherent to such an unconventional journey.  It does not get much better than that.

Great Travel Books: Walking to Vermont by Christopher S. Wren

We at Hennacornoelidays are nothing if not readers.  To us, reading and traveling go hand in hand.  You need to read in order to feel the need to travel.  Or maybe you need to read in order to enjoy the travel.  Either way, all three of us have our own tastes in books.  Henna likes the pretend and is currently taking a break from Harry Potter to read The Hobbit.  Corey’s tastes range from touching S & M tales (50 Shades) to romantic vampire stuff (Twilight) to juvenile fiction and a good tear jerker now and then.  And I am a sucker for violent mysteries with a flawed anti-hero as narrator (see anything by James Lee Burke or Walter Mosley).  I also seek out travel narratives.  My favorite writers of that genre include the very worldly (and often wordy) Paul Theroux and the domestic focused William Least Heat-Moon.  They are the true road and rail rock stars of the world.

There are, of course other, lesser known talents out there too.  What I would like to do over the next few days is highlight some of my favorite travel oriented books.  I am not going to attempt to rank them.  Some books (like Wild which is truly awesome) you may have heard of.  Others books will be less familiar.  But they are all worth your time.

First book on my recommended reading list is Walking to Vermont by Christopher S. Wren. 

Walking to Vermont by Christopher S. Wren

A quick summary:  Distinguished former foreign correspondent and writer for the NY Times walks from his New York office to his retirement home in Vermont.  His path includes the AT and Long Trail.

What I liked best about it:  By walking at an unhurried rate he meets (and is repeatedly passed by) many an interesting hiker.  A lot of them take breathers to talk to a retired journalist.  Christopher is also honest about the daily rigor required to walk ten to twenty miles a day and then often camping out alone in the forest.  Other writers have written similar books (See Bryson’s A Walk in the Woods), but Christopher’s journey is light on the feet and has just enough introspection to make it feel unique.

NEXT UP:  William Least Heat-Moon’s River Horse

 

The Chicago Tribune is Copying Us!

Once again the Chicago Tribune is printing articles that we at Hennacornoelidays have already done.  

Chicago Tribune:  http://www.chicagotribune.com/travel/hc-asheville-honeymoon-travel-20121102,0,4547397.story

Us:  https://hennacornoelidays.wordpress.com/2011/12/01/cosby-campground/

All kidding aside, I know that we are not the first people to discover Smoky Mountain National Park or the joys of camping.  I also liked the Tribune article and wish the author and his wife the best of luck.  But it does seem that the Chicago Tribune is repeatedly talking about things that we here at Hennacornoelidays have already discussed.  Hmmm….  For no particular reason, here are some random trip photos.  Happy Daylight Savings Day and don’t forget to vote!

 

Photos from Starved Rock State Park (Fall Edition)

One of our favorite getaway places is Starved Rock State Park and we are definite repeat offenders at their lodge.  Usually though we visit in winter and last weekend was our first time ever staying over night when the trees still had some leaves.  Based on photos hanging in the lodge of past fall displays, the colors were a bit muted this year due to the drought.  Far worse was the effect the drought and climate change has had on the apple crop.  On the way to the lodge we stopped at an orchard only to find out that the apples were decimated by the warm 2011 March which caused everything to bud early.  A severe frost then came in and wiped out a lot of apples.  The drought did not help any.  But the people we talked to were optimistic about next year.  They also had a lot of kittens running around which made for a happy Henna.  Hope everyone enjoys the photos.

By the way, does anybody out there in Cyberland have any good information for us on the Gulf Shores area in Alabama?  What about the gulf side of Florida?  We are planning our winter trip and could use some ideas.

The Art of Staying Still (fun at the NC in fall)

Do you know that scene in Top Gun when Tom Cruise is flying an F-16 and a MIG is gaining on him fast?  Tom pulls on the brakes and the Soviet menace flies by (and then gets a missile up his tail pipe).  That strategy works well with travel too.  Don’t like the weather or the neighbors or the noise?  Just stay put and it will pass.  Take today for example.  We went to the Fall Fest at the Nature Center (near the corner of Pulaski and Peterson).  Last year we went with Henna’s Girl Scout troop and we were two dozen in a sea of thousands.  That is how it is every fall and somewhere we have photos of infant Henna being carried through a mass of scarecrow building families.  The scarecrow building contest by the way, is just one of many fun activities.  You can also listen to the incredibly talented story-teller Mark Kater spin his magic, cut tree rings under the supervision of our friend Ted, and talk football with neighbor Bob (landscape architect at the Nature Center).  Actually you cannot do the last item.  He is much, much too busy on that special day to say more than hello.  That is, of course, until today.  Today was different from any other fall festival ever attended by us at the Nature Center.  Today was the day it rained for all but one hour of the festival.  We actually have never built a scarecrow either (too crowded!).  Today we did under our umbrellas and a tent that was a bit too small.  Today was the day we parked at the main lot that is just a few yards from the main building (usually we park about half a mile away).  The lines were short at the hot dog stand (the one manned each year by a nearby parochial school’s men’s club) and there were no trinkets or produce to buy at the outdoor market because there was no outdoor market.  If last year the number attending was in the thousands this year it was in the dozens.

But there were plenty of friends to see such as Ted, whom I have known since being first introduced to him by Corey in that short period of time when we were just good friends.  After we got married (and just before a road trip) he taught us how to change a tire.  He is also an outdoor enthusiast who loves to teach what he knows and has the kindest heart possible.  It was good talking to him by the fire.  Later we also talked to Bob’s wife Jessica and their daughter Annabelle about school and other neighborhood gossip.  As for Bob it was fun asking him how the Packers are doing.  There was an Irish folk band there too (One of The Girls) who played soulful music perfect for a rainy day.  Mark also told his stories and although we have heard him tell most of them before, we listened as intently as ever.  And I got to the hot dog stand tent just before they closed up shop.  For the first time I made conversation with the men manning the dogs and we joked about the crummy weather.   A panel of judges (actually maybe just Bob) determined our scarecrow to be the zaniest which earned us a wooden cookie medal.  Henna was incredibly excited by this and did not seem to get that there were only about ten entries and seven awards given.  The rain by that time had cleared and we had the trails all to ourselves.  We had stood still and the world had reshuffled the deck to our advantage.

Bumming around the North Shore

That’s how I have felt recently, rooted.  Rooted is not all that bad, but it is kind of the opposite of a road trip.  So when Corey woke up a few morning ago (some time after 10) and announced she felt the need for adventure, well I was not going to argue.  We bounced around several ideas, but in the end decided just to drive east. 

In road trip terms we do not live so far from the lake.  I mean we camped some 20 miles from the rim of the Grand Canyon and still felt the pull of that big ol’ hole.  Our five or so miles from the lake should be nothing more than a short drive (or long hike) away.  But those five miles are city miles and involve a journey through no less than a dozen or so worlds and at least twenty minutes.  I think I know Jackson Lake (Grand Tetons) as well as Lake Michigan.  So today we tried to become more familiar with the familiar. 

The things we discovered:  a Cub Scout group learning how to kayak on the North Branch (of the Chicago River), the awesome and towering art found in the Skokie Northshore Sculpture Park, two quality used book stores, one very good antique store (where Corey bought oldish cookie cutters), a Stone Cold Creamery (definitely a mistake for Corey and I but a favorite for Henna), a wine tasting, a park, several cats, a giant turtle, and other animals at the cool pet store, and an overcrowded Whole Foods.  Such are the adventures that make life just so much more enjoyable.

Logan Square Farmers Market

Before I tell you about the cool farmers market in Logan Square, I want to point out to everyone that for the second week in a row the Chicago Tribune has plagiarized my work.  I know your thinking why, why would the largest newspaper in Chicago bother stealing from our little travel oriented blog.  I will tell you why; the Chicago Tribune is out to get me.  First they bash all Chicago Public Schools teachers and clinicians in an unrelenting campaign to rid the world of public education, and then they carelessly follow my lead in all things Hennacornoelidays.  It started with their three-part article about Charlie Trotter’s (published a couple of days after my blog entry about the same man) and then continued with today’s article concerning Saskatchewan.  Here is what the anti-union/ corporate thugs wrote:    http://articles.chicagotribune.com/2012-08-28/travel/sc-trav-0828-saskatchewan-20120828_1_national-parks-egg-rolls-royal-saskatchewan-museum   And here is our modest article published one year prior  https://hennacornoelidays.wordpress.com/2011/07/04/the-drive-to-cyprus/

OK, the Tribune article is little more focused.  But it also misses some of the beauty and grandeur that lies in between Saskatchewan’s middling towns.  To travel on Transcontinental Highway 1 through the Canadian prairie is a lesson in isolation as for long stretches (hours and hours of time) one can drive and not see any chain hotels, few diners, and just the occasional train running parallel to the road.  And we are talking the equivalent to Interstate 80 here. 

But we are not today traveling through the Canadian landscape (although for the last few days I have been looking at ferry and train routes to and through Newfoundland).  Today we are home and spent some the day looking for farm fresh eggs.  While in Yosemite we made the mistake of accepting fresh eggs from our neighbor.  There is no going back.  A month ago our neighbors here brought us to the Iowa City farmers market.  It was enough to make us wish we lived there.  I am happy to say that the Logan Square Farmer’s Market is almost just as cool.  It has snow cones, organic fruit and veggies galore, smoked fish at just $10/pound, cheeses, hard liquors distilled in Ravenswood, food trucks, and a lot of meat.  People were as hip and friendly as they were in Iowa and Logan Boulevard was transformed into something not quite rural, but altogether sustainable.   It felt good to be home.