Arthur Winks at Us From Afar

I am writing to you now from a warm “Down East” bed and breakfast (Down East here is the way locals refer to the north east coast Maine coast line). I have a good bottle of wine and a patient wife waiting for me while the coolest daughter in the world settles down to bed. Had fireworks today too which was pretty special since Arthur’s delightful antics shut down the pyrotechnics last night.

Hurricane Arthur

When I hear Arthur, I can’t help but think of the loveable drunk that Dudley Moore played a few decades past. That might be part of the reason why I, along with seemingly everyone else in the Acadia National Park world we inhabited not so long ago, underestimated that tropical depression that used to be a hurricane. No one knew exactly when the big fellow was going to show up, but all agreed it would be little more than a rain. Truth be told it was more than a rain and although it never quite terrified us like maybe it should have, it walloped Maine like a welter weight. Less than ten yards from our tent a tree splintered. Another tree plopped down right in the middle of Maine Street at Southwest Harbor and seriously inconvenienced folks (like us) trying to get off the island. At “Maine’s first winery” the power was out and the place ran on candle light and rain water collected to rinse out glasses if needed. On Route 1 we saw power lines ripped from their poles and trees littering lawns. And the thing to consider with all of this is that Arthur never made it to land; this was just the ripples making their way from the eye. What if the dumb drunk had connected? Noel

Where we go to a soup kitchen: Common Good Soup Kitchen Community, SW Harbor Maine

At Common Good Soup Kitchen
It does not get more heart warming than this. The Common Good Soup Kitchen Community has been re-imagining the soup kitchen since 2009 when Chef Bill Morrison began making soup in his own kitchen for elderly neighbors. Since then the operation has expanded to a former, very quaint restaurant in Southwest Harbor immediately adjacent to Acadia Park’s Seawall Campground. In the summer it serves up yummy popovers, oatmeal, and coffee with jam, butter, and impressive views of the Atlantic. The place is a magnet not only to people in need, but also backpackers, campers, and the better heeled tourists. There also is a stage for music making and I write this now with the pleasing sounds of Timbered Lake playing in the background. It is pretty close to being 100% volunteer operated and also is a venue for assisting vocational skills for local special needs children. For more information go here

A volunteer at work

A volunteer at work

More About That Cabin We Hiked To: Gray Knob Cabin, NH

Gray Knob is a pretty special place offered to the public by the Randolph Mountain Club. Founded in 1910 , the RMC maintains two back country cabins, two lean-tos, and one hundred trails that wind about the White Mountains. So impressed were we by the cabin and their mission statement, we joined the RMC even though it might be years before we go back. For more information about this super- duper Hennacornoelidays recommended club go here. These are the details.

Where it is: Gray Knob is located on Mount Adams in the twilight of Timber Line (in the Presidential Mountain Range trees stop growing at approximately 4500′ which is an extremely low elevation considering the mountains share the same latitude as the French Riviera; in Colorado Timber Line is closer to 10000′).

How to get there: You gotta hike in. There are many trails that will take you there, but Lowe’s Path is the easiest. You park your car for a buck at Lowe’s gas station off Route 2 in Randolph, NH. Lowe’s store has been around for several generations with Mr. Lowe instrumental in building this path about a century ago. You then walk on the side of busy Route 2 for a tenth of a mile to the trail head. The 3.2 trail is neatly bisected by another trail called The Link. The first 1.6 to The Link is a lazy, pleasant walk in the woods that marginally gets you a little bit higher than where you started. The other half throws many a rock scramble along with inclines that will make your lungs scream. At 2.6 miles you reach a lean-to called the Log Cabin. The 3 walls and roof will keep you dry, but the bugs might also keep you company. It is $8 a night/per person to sleep there. The next .6 is mighty interesting and tired out our knuckles from gripping rocks. It took us, with packs, about 4 hours to do the trail. Most people probably do it closer to 3.

The amenities: For $20 a night/ per person (cheaper if you join the RMC, more on that later) you get to sleep on a worn out mattress set amongst a sea of other mattresses upstairs. As a snorer, I was pretty stoked to be able to observe first-hand the many different snoring methods. Downstairs is a wood burning stove for winter, two tables with benches, and counter space for setting up your backpacking stove. We filtered water from a spring .2 miles away. The cabin also has an impressive library (which I perused under flashlight) and a collection of board games. The main attraction of the cabin is that it offers easy access to a whole bunch of alpine trails including a reportedly not so hard 5 mile trek to Mount Washington. We chose a 1.6 mile hike to the summit of Adams which included a healthy dose of rock scrambles. The weather here is Artic born and is easily stirred up by the mountains. Storms come out of nowhere, it can snow in July, and you do not want to set out without rain gear and a willingness to turn back at a moment’s notice.

The toilet: The toilet is a state of the art environmentally conscious outhouse that utilizes solar power in order to maximize the composting process. To minimize waste, guests are encouraged to pee out in the woods. For #2 guests are asked to add a cup of mulch to their contribution.

Who runs the show: The caretaker runs the show. He or she collects the money each night (including from the Log Cabin and another nearby lean-to called the Perch) and makes sure no one accidentally burns down the cabin. For us, caretaker Hannah not only succeeded in keeping us from harm, but also went way out of her way to ensure that Henna had a good experience in the backcountry. This included on the first night trying to keep Creepy Man from continuing his incredibly inappropriate ghost stories and then later teaching us how to play Cribbage. Her personality and all around niceness reminded us a lot of our niece/cousin/house sitter Abby and we hope to catch up with her again. The visitors change nightly but they all were willing to share stories and other niceties.

Other lodging options up there: Crag’s Camp is more spacious, offers large windows overlooking a steep ravine, and a deck. It is a pretty easy .4 miles away from Gray Knob. For approximately $100 (again, per person) you can sleep in an AMC hut where you will get running water, people to cook for you, and an actual bed (but with no privacy; as frequent Gray Knob camper Carl said “at the end of the day you still sleep in a room with a bunch of strangers snoring). Noel

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Cool Eats Bangor, ME: Antique Marketplace & Cafe

20140630-125036-46236592.jpg. Downtown Bangor Maine grabbing lunch before heading into discovery center. Cool antique store with tons of goodies (no violin though: Henna is looking for one). Cafe is nestled in a corner with retro chairs and tables…..no Stephen King sighting either.

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Where we walk up a mountain

More to come later, but here are a few photos from our weekend backpacking trip up Mt. Adams in NH. We stayed in a super cool and rustic cabin called Gray Knob where the people are fit and interesting (and in one case creepy).

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Cool Thing NH: SAALT Pub, Gorham

Housed in a repurposed bank space, the SAALT pub is just so cool. From the plush leather chairs to the back of the menu that describes each food source, this place is a winner and definitely
Hennacornoelidays recommended.

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Stowe, VT

Bingum Falls

Bingum Falls

Sterling Pond (Smuggler's Notch State Park)

Sterling Pond (Smuggler’s Notch State Park)

Greetings from Vermont! We’ve been hanging in Stowe now for a few days and love it! Our camping spot is on a nearby mountain, replete with a shelter that our tent fits perfectly into. That is great because it rained all last night and into the morning. Our site is also a short hike to get to, which makes for many trips to the car. This morning we enjoyed coffee and fresh farm eggs scrambled under our shelter. The area has great hiking that entails climbing over big rock scrambles as you ascend. Today we laid low doing laundry, reading at the local library, and sitting in the coffee shop. We feel like locals, and even Henna said today that it would be nice to live here. Tomorrow we head off for the White Mountains of New Hampshire for Henna’s first back packing trip up to a hut. Should be fun. Until then, happy trails. Corey

 

 

Henna with Addie and Jupiter (2 new friends)

Henna with Addie and Jupiter (2 new friends)

Happy Hour

If you want to learn a lot about a town try hanging out at a bar or the library. Henna is a light weight so we tend to spend out time in the latter. It is actually amazing how similar/nice every librarian really is (except for our Library Fave Kate, she is the coolest Librarian ever!). The Stowe Library is actually housed in a former high school with the top floor dedicated to the arts. For both days we hung out it was a cool mix of families, visitors, and the usual assortment of writer types one stumbles into everywhere in Vermont. Stowe also has a friendly, slightly expensive Laundromat so our completely rained out day was more than a little fun. Heading out today we mostly took Route 15 through a Vermont landscape littered with bookstores, syrup farms, and talking moose. Favorite moment was eavesdropping on a coffee shop conversations (picture three professor types huddled over their drinks and whispering over and over again “he can never be one of us” and “he did the college Vermont thing, sure, but there is no way he will ever make it through the year.” Talk about a tough crowd. One more thing: Cabot, VT (home of Cabot cheese) is not the glamorous place you might think it is. Until the next time. Noel
Our digs at Smuggler's Notch State Park