The Speed Up

It seems like years ago that my better half wrote about the slow down (the four wonderful days spent at Waterton).  I am here to tell you about the great big speed up.  First, let me tell you that each and every trip we vow not to speed up.  Past trips we have made valiant attempts to spend days in Iowa or Wisconsin or Nebraska, sucking up the adventure with as much abandonment as we would in, say, Montana.  It just doesn’t work that way.  Once the road tilts us back it is foolish to fight gravity. Yesterday we woke up just south of Portland (Albany), drove 4 to 5 hours to Crater Lake, found out the boat rides have not yet begun (snow, snow here is everywhere), decided not to camp at the lake and drove in search of a campground.  Late Friday nights our options were slim and we slept at a nice hotel in Bend.  After a fun time walking the riverfront we ate a mediocre Thai meal and then swam at the hotel until 11.  Today we drove about 400 miles to a wonderful, happy KOA in southern Idaho.  The campground is crowded with happy, fresh families on their way to the Tetons and Yellowstone.  We can tell they are beginning their adventures because everyone is happy and smiles.  And so were we as we made wonderful chicken tacos at our site and then swam outside until past 10.  Tomorrow we hope to camp in the Tetons and then spend two nights in Yellowstone.  And then the speed up will begin in earnest. 

The Mountain

Even on a trip some basic house keeping must be done.  I am waiting on the wash cycle while Noel and Henna swim in the pool, we finally found some blue skies and warmer air.  I know at home ya’ll are having a hot spell, so I won’t talk too much about the cold weather we’ve been through.  This pit stop is in Albany Oregon, and we’ve been here before.  This trip has taken us to many old haunts from a trip ten years past.  Some have felt the same, while others I’ve totally forgotten and get to simply experience again.  I realized that my mind can only hold onto memories that have struck me somewhere deep.  We just returned from one of those places and I am glad to say that the same feeling came back to me as it took hold of me 10 years ago.  Mt. Rainer National Park still makes me feel larger than life inside.  When I am here I feel like home.

 We drove from the coast yesterday through more of the same misty rain, just under Seattle and down into the park.  As we travelled through towns along the way, the earth was level but began its wonderful ascent into the lower hills that surround the mountain.  Mt. Rainer sits in the middle of the park at 14,431ft. and if your lucky you can see it’s snow-covered peak, when spied upon it just takes your breath away.  We were only planning on staying in the area for two days, so I knew my odds of seeing the mountain were slim.  But as we drove the only park road closest to the peak, we saw the clouds move to reveal it through the tall mountain pines.  We quickly pulled over, I pulled Henna out and we stood on the side of the road to watch it.  A ranger told me to talk quietly or it’ll go into hiding again.  The air was cold and crisp and smelled deliciously of the pine that surround this dormant volcano.  It’s a beauty of a park, and we realized as we reached the visitor’s center at the top of this winding road that the trails were all still snowed in.  Yikes.  Record snow fall and early travels to mountainous regions can leave some hikers sad.  We back packed this park ten years ago, and I was instantly in love.  A trail called the wonderland trail surrounds this park. Noel and I have said that we’ll do it for our 40th birthday, which is in two years.  Better start training now, and getting Henna ready.  She’ll be coming too. 

 

We camped at her feet, (I think of her as a female) and it was a glorious night.  When we awoke rain clouds were threatening us, but we cleared camp and just made a 3 mile hike before the rain fell.  We left for drier weather and to begin our decent homeward.  We never saw the mountain again as clouds of her own making concealed her.  Maybe next time, because I know I’ll be back here.

 

Water Everywhere

When we first started planning out this trip, I saw no great unifying theme.  We began with family (the wedding) and were seeking out other family Northwest.  But other interests kept popping up and we were always aware that it was ten years ago that Corey and I drove Northwest and backpacked in Mt. Ranier and Olympic.  We also met Lou for the first time that year.  But as I think back on this trip I see water as the great tie.  The nights in Brandon, Manitoba and Canmore, BC (and tonight in Albany, OR) may be the only nights I did not sleep next to some great body of water.  From Lake Huron to Lake Superior to Lake Waterton to the Mississippi and the Pacific Ocean.  Last night, at Mt. Ranier, the sounds of Laughing Creek kept us company.  And this morning we hiked to Silver Falls (from a trail that began at the same creek).  Our first hike was to Sable Falls which fed into Lake Superior.  Our toughest hike was to Lake Bertha.  And we canooed on icy Lake Cameron in Wateron and then later had a kayak lesson on Lake Waterton.  We also took a simple boat tour on Lake Waterton and zipped around on a Zodiak at Pacific Rim with a smiling Ahab out looking for whales.  Tomorrow we hope to take a boat tour at Crater Lake and then putz around on Wizard Island.  We also fished on small and big lakes in the UP off gravel roads and windy routes.  Soon the last or maybe next to last leg of our tip will begin (this trip has more legs than a millipeed) and we will move away from obvious water.  But there will surely still be sand in my boots and soggy socks on my feet.

Olympic National Park

We are headed home.  Hennacornoeli style.  Sunday night we were dropped off by car ferry at Port Angeles.  We hit the Safeway, got some gas, and then bedded down at the Port Angeles Inn.  The price was high, but it had a wonderful view of the town and the dock.  Late into the night I heard teenagers whooping it up just out of sight.  Or maybe they were vampires- this is Twilight area.  Today, Wednesday, I woke up only 135 miles away.  Although further south, we were also further west and in road miles further from home than when we dropped off in Port Angeles.  But we squeezed every ounce out of those 135 miles.  We circled the perimeter of Olympic National Park and hiked in the Elhwa Valley, camped at Mora, saw a sunset at Rialto beach and marveled at the distant sea stacks, were able to play on and around the sea stacks at Ruby Beach, hiked in a rain forest at Hoh (Santa’s favorite rain forest, Hoh, Hoh, Hoh), and then camped on a ridge almost overlooking the ocean last night.  We also scavenged for drift wood for a fire, collected crab parts and interesting stones, and watched driftwood houses being built.  Henna, although decidedly homesick, was asked if she wanted to book home or take this detour and she decided on the detour.  A chip off the old block.

Back in the USA

Greeting from Port Angeles, WA.  It feels great to be back home, sort of.  Funny how I can still be on or near the Pacific Ocean but feel so close to home.  And all because I no longer have to think metric.

I want to quickly update everyone on the last few days.  After Pacific Rim NP we spent another night with Grandma Lou in Lady Smith.  We were lucky to meet more of Lou’s (and our) family.  What struck me was how much everyone genuinely enjoyed being in each others company.  They made us feel very welcome.  And Lou also treated us to an amazing dinner involving white fish and prawns.  Yum.  The next morning she even taught us how to poach an egg which we put to practice this morning.  Egg poaching is very camper friendly (little mess).  Thank you again Lou for welcoming us into your home and David and Mariah for showing us around.  We hope you visit us soon.

Another family also made us feel very welcome.  Janice, a neighbor and friend origionally from Calgary, has been visiting family in Victoria for the past month.  Janice invited us to a family and friend get together yesterday  and we feasted on fajitas.  We were happy to meet her sisters who recommended coffee joints in Victoria (we did enjoy Habit) and other things to do on the island.  We also greatly enjoyed talking with Janice’s parents about a range of subjects including accounting, universal health coverage (a common topic when talking with Canadians- to date no Canadian that I have talked to is envious of our system), and Mongolian bathrooms.  Thank you again Janice for inviting us and Jill for hosting the dinner.

We spent today cruising Victoria.  There is a buskering (street performer) fest going on and we were able to check out three performances.  The last one blew us away.  It involved a June Cleaver look alike, suggestive dialogue, and juggling fire while on a “yes man tower.”  Tomorrow I will post some pictures.

Next up:  Olympia National Park and then Mt. Ranier.  Our trip is winding down, but we have up to two weeks left to go and will make the most of it.   

 

A letter to my friends

Dear all my friends,

This is a blog postcard.  I miss you and wish you were here!  I am coming home in two weeks.  I went on a whale watching tour and saw three whales.  I ate goat cheese and went to a stable and pet a horse.  I went to a hazel nut farm and bought hazel nuts.  Are you having a good summer?  When I get home I cannot wait to play with you.  That’s all. 

Love Henna

West Coast Swing

June 14, 2011

The west coast of Vancouver Island, following route 4, or as we referred to it as “The Road To Tofino”, was like traveling to another continent.  We found ourself in a rain forest, complete with the appropriate, rain soaked weather, along the ruggid western coast of the island.  We settled into our campsite among the trees, moss and rain glad to have found a place to all home.  We started our day, as Noel previously posted, very early in the morning along a deserted beach at low tide.  The tide pools were teaming with sea creatures, star fish, battling hermit crabs and bugs that could both swim and make us scream as they scurried towards us on land.  At that moment, we felt very possesive of that small piece of the beach.  The beach is swaddled with rain forest along it’s edge, and the paths leading to them are labeled 1,2,3, so that travelers can find their way back to that parking lot.  At any moment a wolf, black bear or cougar could walk along these shores looking for breakfast at low tide (although no story of the such will follow thank goodness).  We then headed off toward the small town of Ucuclet to find our whale watching tour for the day.  This town is exactly what you think of when one ponders a fishing village.  Every kind of fishing vessle lines it’s harbor while small but not trendy shops dot the streets.  Our tour was decided and we took off with our tour guide named Marla upon a zodiac named Hell Fish.   Marla was a spunky, adorable gal who was as instilled confidence.  She was young but had already been working this harbor for 7 years.  She also was a fisherwoman in Holland. I find it amazing the lives peope lead, no two are ever exactly alike.  I wanted to take her and put her in my pocket for the remainder of our trip.  But Henna knew she belonged free to roam the water.  Our tour was a wild ride, as we searched the broken Islands (chain of islands just off the coast), into open waters in search of a whale.  We did spy bald eagels, habor seals, seal lions fighting, black comorat birds and the elusive sun.  One highlight was a massive bald eagle nest perched upon a cedar tree.  Marla noted that because of it’s size it must be around 15 years old, and is home to a very old eagle couple.  Around 2 hours into our tour, and no whale yet to be spotted, Marla heard word of some humpback whales that were found far out in open waters.  She kicked the kodiak into high gear and we flew and bounced along to get our look see.  It felt funny to be searching for the whales, I felt like an intruder on someones lives.  At last we saw them, and to see Henna’s face light up when she witnessed the tail come out of the water made my heart happy.  We were watching a mama humpback, her calf and a companion hoping for some future mating privledges.  We watched the whaled breach up to feed!  Wow.  In the meantime, I got to visit the bathroom on this rocky boat…..quite an experience. 

At last we found our sea legs and found that our back cab had been open for the entire three hour tour!  Only the secod time we have done that, but it ended fine, nothing stolen.  We quickly visited the local acquarium which follows a catch and release policy.  Every exhibit is set free back to the waters at the end of the season …how nice. We then visited Tofino for a wonderful sushi dinner while watching sea planes land and take off in the harbor.  Tofino is a bigger community that ucucllet and is a big surfer town.  Before we took one last hike into the rain forest along the schooner cove I looked back at Henna and she was asleep!  I knew we had a busy day when she falls asleep.  We  found ourself once again along a beach with no people.  Ahhhhhhh…..At that moment it began to mist as we headed home to crash in the tent and sleep while the rain pattered above.  What a day.